NATURE LOVERS LOVE MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA!

I love all of my home state of California. There are endless things to see and do in this, I think, the most beautiful state in the Union. Recently, my friends Kay, Tom and I and several friends discovered a delightful new adventure right in our own backyard.  As a special treat for Kay’s recent milestone birthday, we packed our bags for an overnight stay on a California Serengeti, tents and lions and elephants and all! Along the way, we discovered a few more wonders that California has to offer—all within a few miles of the Salinas and Monterrey Bay area.

Sleeping With Lions

Vision Quest Ranch is a dream come true for founder, Charlie Sammut. Although he started out in a career as a policeman, his passion for animals he’d had since childhood never left him. Still working in the Police Department, he launched a successful dog kennel business, and then one by one began to rescue large exotic animals. The animals rescued from circus’ and private parties, came to him sometimes in very sad shape. To pay for their care, he created a non-profit wildlife haven, and eventually purchased a 51 acre site outside of Monterey in Salinas. To make it a unique adventure for visitors, he built safari like tents surrounding the animal compound. And, that’s what we all came to experience--Bed and Breakfast--with the elephants!

Greeted first by the elephants, we all had a chance to feed them carrots which they

could have just kept scooping in their mouths if we hadn't run out! Kay, who adores

animals, was in heaven! (Photos courtesy of Mark and Kathy Triolo)

Next, our guide gave us a tour around the compound of large pens. 

We saw kangaroo, porcupine, monkeys,large cats of all sorts,

 birds, bears and many, many more.

The large cats live in one of the just completed compounds that gives them huge spaces to 

roam. Plexiglass fronts on the compounds makes it easy to view the animals. These 

are some contented tigers!

This guy was in dreamland when we saw him, but he certainly got our attention at night! 

Every 2 to 3 hours I would bolt upright and wide awake in bed as he let loose with a few

 hair-raising roars! I'm sure they could hear him in the next county!

Kay and I enjoying the view. (You can tell by the hat that I was the only one in the group who was always cold. I just could not get warm even though the tents had space heaters. This was in February and I'm from San Diego after all!) The other tents are scattered around the large compound where the elephants,one ostrich and a couple of water buffalo roam. On the upper left, is the building where the elephants spend the night. We could watch them being washed and fed from our own front porch.

The moment we were all waiting for came the next morning when the 

elephants and their trainers came by each of the tents to deliver a continental breakfast. 

The elephants, of course, came along for the hand-outs, this time for apples as well as carrots. 

This absolutely made the trip!

A Gaggle of Friends!
 Let to right, George (who also celebrated his birthday), wife Gayle, Kathy, Birthday Girl, Kay, husband Tom, Barbara (me) and Mark, Kathy's husband. We are on the deck of one of the authentic Serengeti style tents on the Vision Quest Ranch.

Monterey Bay Aquarium

Since we were in the area, we couldn't pass up going to the world famous Monterrey Bay Aquarium. No matter how many times I've been there it never gets old. First of all, the setting is stunning. Located right on the bay, the sound of the waves, local seals and birds fill the air while the ocean breezes mysteriously seems to whet the appetite for fresh seafood!

Dedicated to conservation of the many fish, animals and plant life of our California coast, the Aquarium is both educational and a treat for the senses. It really is a must see for people of all ages.

 The two story aquarium is mesmerizing. I could spend hours just watching it like a movie. 

Tree size seaweed sway in the current while dozens of native California fish swim

 lazily around and around. 

The Aquarium is so close to the water, you can experience waves crashing right over your head!

Left to right, top: Wet waves and dry me,  and gigantic seaweed.

Bottom left: life-sized models of humpback whales, which can be seen at certain times of the year  off the coast from the Aquarium.  Bottom right: thriving sand dollars.

Video of just one of the huge tanks of jelly fish!

The John Steinbeck Museum in Salinas

Located very close to the wildlife sanctuary, Salinas is the home of John Steinbeck's Museum. Besides being one of my favorite authors, the museum is beautifully curated, very photogenic and well worth seeing.

Steinbeck lived nearly all of his life in and around the Monterey/Pacific Grove/Salinas area. (In fact, his childhood home is in walking distance from the museum.) He drew his stories from the agricultural and fish canning industries and the lives of their owners and workers. One of the recurring themes of his novels focused on the sometimes cruel treatment of migrant workers and those beaten down by the depression. Yet, at the same time, he celebrated the resiliency of the human spirit to survive. Many of his books were made into movies, "East of Eden", "Cannery Row", "Tortilla Flats", "Grapes of Wrath" and "Of Mice and Men", all staring some of the biggest names in Hollywood at the time. 

"Travels With Charlie" is his account of a a road trip he took in 1960 around the United States with his dog Charlie. It's a clear-eyed look at the joys and at times loneliness of solo traveling. He enjoyed meeting people all over the U.S., but when he entered the south, his journalistic side couldn't help but point out the still present injustices against southern African Americans. That experience left him depressed and longing to go home, which is a testimony of how deeply he cared about the downtrodden. His custom made camper now resides in the museum.

Upper left is the "East of Eden" display with movie posters picturing James Dean. Upper right is a display of "Grapes of Wrath". The visitor can sit in old bus seats and watch excerpts of a performance by Gary Sinese. Lower left is Tom cranking up the old tin lizzy from the movie, "East of Eden". Lower right is the custom camper made especially for John Steinbeck for his 1960 around the states trip. There is no bathroom or kitchen. He really roughed it.

We headed home after visiting the Aquarium, but not before treating ourselves to big steaming bowls of clam chowder served with hot sour dough bread. No one can pass up a seafood meal fresh from the ocean and we are no exception!

There are countless places to eat, but you can't beat eating at a restaurant built over the water.
From water to table--it doesn't get any fresher than that!

Next Time: River Cruising on the Rhine with Viking Cruise Line!

**Many thanks to Mark and Kathy Triolo for their wonderful photos of the Wildlife Sanctuary!!

THE MANY LIVES OF ENGLAND’S WARWICK CASTLE

 Warwick Castle, looking toward the original Anglo Saxon mound.

In the summer of 2014, my friends, Kay, Tom, and their granddaughter Sutherland and I spent two weeks wandering the idyllic landscapes of the English midland countryside called the Cotswolds. The name literally means “rolling hills with sheep” and as the name implies, it is fairly dripping in charm. Our goal to soak in every thatched roof and medieval town and village we could started by chartering a canal long boat. We putted up and down the Severn River for a week, and then packed ourselves into a rental car for another week to tour the surrounding countryside. (See my blog: Yanks Canal Boating in Britain, 4/2/15.) We all had our wish list of things we wanted to see and Warwick Castle topped Kay’s list.  

 Warwick Castle is a classic example of a Medieval Norman fortification.

 From an Anglo Saxon Defensive Mound to Norman Castle

The picturesque old castle, steeped in 1,000 years of history and designed by William the Conqueror himself, stands guard over the Avon River in Warwickshire, not far from Shakespeare’s birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon. Originally an Anglo Saxon stronghold, the Normans constructed a wooden fort  on the site in 1068, which was rebuilt in stone two hundred years later. Down through the ages, it passed through many hands depending on what faithful supporter of what king needed rewarding. By the 16^th century, however, it was in sad shape. King James 1 gave it to Sir Fulke Greville, along with the title of Earl of Warwick, who then spent the equivalent of 3 million dollars to convert it to a fine country home.

Warwick Castle as Country Home

During the Victorian era, Warwick became one of the places to party, and Daisy, Countess of Warwick, knew how to throw a good one. First the guest list: of course one would invite the Duke of Wales (rumored to be her paramour), his son Duke of York (later to become George V), and members of the Churchill family including the young Winston (later to become Prime Minister). Throw in some famous entertainment, fabulous food, beautiful women and rich men and voila! Let the fun begin. 

A gentleman visitor would always bring his own valet.    

Warwick Castle as Theme Park

So, given that the castle had been a playground for the rich and famous, it should have been no surprise that it is now a playground for the middling classes, or in other words, you and me. Except that I was completely taken by surprise because I hadn’t done my homework! It had been a theme park since 1978 when the Tussauds Group (Yep, as in Madame Tussauds) took it over. To their credit, they paid for extensive restoration on the castle and grounds and now it is considered one of the best of England’s castles.

However, because I wasn’t prepared for the theme park atmosphere, my first impressions were not very favorable.  At first, the Quasimodo looking Jester who greeted us, the knight on his mighty steed and the merchants taunting us with their wares were amusing, but it soon began to look suspiciously like a ”Medieval Castle World” in Disneyland. A hot, humid day anyway, the crowds of adults and children vying for a spot at the food stands and tours quickly (for me) became oppressive. (I do apologize to all of you who happen to like amusement parks; they’re just not on my list of favorite things to do!)

 These beautiful sets of armor were only meant to be worn for special occasions.

 The one on the left was made for a seven year old child.

Once inside the castle, I relaxed and enjoyed the more traditional exhibits of amour and furnishings. That is until we wandered into what was once the Greville’s Victorian drawing room. There, wax figures of Lady Randolph Churchill, Daisy, Countess of Warwick, and others sat stiffly staring into space while disembodied voices engaged in gossipy conversation. It went from sad to silly in the next room. The wax “men” (supposedly Duke of Marlborough, Duke of York, Lord Greville etc.) poised around a card table, were engaged in an equally lively discussion all while having  their wax lips sealed. One poor figure, his wig skewed and looking uncomfortably propped up in a chair, appeared in no condition to have any opinion at all. He frankly looked like someone forgot to bury him.

Just in case I’m making the whole experience sound like a disaster, it truly was not. Many rooms were tastefully furnished with realistic looking wax likenesses of the notable people who used to live and visit the castle, which I did enjoy. However, I was thankful that they didn’t include those unintelligible voice-overs they used in the drawing room. My favorite was the wax figure of King Henry VIII, who incidentally, never visited the castle. But who cares? After all, how many times do you have the opportunity to have your picture taken with a King? (Shown here with a likeness of Richard III.)

The Most Beautiful Woman in Warwick!

 Kay and I were totally blown away when we saw this painting of Isabel de Requesens, Vice-Empress of Naples, and how much she and Sutherland look alike. How nice to resemble a lady who was considered the most beautiful woman in Spain!

I attempted to catch the jousting taking place on the field outside the castle from

my place on the ramparts. Now THAT looked like fun!

(left to right) Sutherland, Kay and me with Warwickshire in the background.

View from the castle of the Avon River 

 There be dragons in the river!

The Castle really is spectacular. Compact, it is perfect in scale and a showcase of classical Norman architecture. I must give the Tussauds Group a hand for preserving such an English treasure and bringing Warwick Castle to life for future generations to enjoy. (TIP: Go off season and pick a cool day!)

Next time: Oxford Revisted

MESA VERDE AND DURANGO, COLORADO’S FINEST

Cliff Palace, Grand Daddy of Metropolitan Living, Pueblo Style!

Mesa Verde, A Pueblo Metropolis

You may think that condo living is a modern living arrangement, but in the U.S.  the Pueblo Indians had it down to a science as far back as 600 A.D. Accessibility may have been a problem for some, but as far as use of space, design and functionality, the Pueblos were master builders. Designated a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978, these architectural marvels tucked into sky-scraping cliffs are everything I thought they would be—jaw dropping!

Spruce Tree House

Spruce Tree House

On day  16 of our Western National Parks tour, we stopped at Mesa Verde in southeastern Colorado to tour one of the many cliff dwellings in the area called the Spruce Tree House. We had to climb down then up a steep trail to reach it, passing a crystal stream providing a fresh flow of water. As we entered the village it felt as if we had walked back in time. Except for a few minor repairs, it could easily be humming with bustling activity and lively chatter. Under the watchful gaze of a Park Ranger, we still had freedom to explore all the nooks and crannies of the buildings and one of the pits called kivas.

 Good examples of the construction techniques. You can see that they

included the "latest in modern built in appliances".

 These ancient pits or kivas, are modeled after the Pueblo's earlier dwellings called
 "pit houses". It is interesting that this ancient form of dwelling was incorporated into the later high rise stone complexes. (See "Pit Houses" below)

Spruce Tree House
 The Pueblo used the tops of the mesas over the dwellings to farm. 

How It All Began, Pit Houses

The Pueblo people settled in the area (later to be named Mesa Verde, Spanish for “green table”) around 550 AD. It must have been a lush place with rich farm land and game because it eventually grew into a community of thousands by 1150 AD. Their first dwellings are called “pit houses”. Dug half way into the ground, they are roundish in shape and contained a fire pit/oven and ingenious ventilation. The roof, shaped like the bottom part of a pyramid, was constructed of intertwined poles and twigs and covered with a layer of adobe.

By 750 AD, the Pueblos began to build above ground using tent poles and mud (adobe) until around 1000 AD, when they advanced to building with carved stone allowing the dwellings to rise as much as three stories. Interestingly, they retained the ancient use of pits or kivas in their cliff dwellings, probably for ceremonial and storage use.

The original dwellings in the area are called "pit houses" because they

were partially dug into the earth and covered with adobe roofs.

It surprised me to learn how many cliff dwellings there are, over 600 in all. We drove by dozens on our way in and out of Mesa Verde, all varying in size and complexity. The biggest and most spectacular one is called Cliff Palace (seen at the top of the page). Unfortunately, we could only view at it from a distance, but I could see people lined up to go down with a park ranger. It looked like just getting down to it from the mesa would be an experience in itself!

Just a few of over 600 Pueblo cave dwellings in Mesa Verde. The one on the bottom

is a double decker!

Durango to Silverton on a Genuine Choo Choo Train!

Talk about fun! I definitely regressed to my 10 year old self on the ride from Durango to Silverton in a fully restored coal-fired Narrow Gauge train. Sitting very intimately together on the cramped seats, I couldn’t help but think about the proper Victorian ladies in their voluminous crinolines mashed together with cowboys and miners for the almost three hour trip. However, I quickly forgot all propriety and went the distance with my head out of the window or hanging over the side of the open air car getting a face full of coal dust. And best of all, the entire rail line followed the raging Animas River. Thank heavens we got to see it before the government washed the polluted waters from abandoned gold mines into the river turning it a hideous orange.

Aboard a coal fired narrow gauge railroad along the Animas River in Colorado.

You can see how Elaine and her husband Robert had to snuggle up in order to fit in 

the tiny seats. However, it looks like they rather enjoyed it!

 A narrow gauge rail track can be  up to 20 inches narrower than today's tracks. 

We boarded the train in Durango (top) for the 3 hour trip to Silverton (lower left). Our fellow traveler, Gerta, is shown just leaving the general store, or did she just park her Model T? (Just kidding! Silverton just happened to have an antique car show while we were there.)

(Lower right) I had to take a picture of this wonderful gentlemen at the train

 station in Durango. I swear he looks exactly like my great-grampa Franklin who

 lived until he was 96. He provided for his family of 12 as a frontier black smith.

EPILOGUE

It was sad when our trip finally came to an end after 18 fantastic days on the road through some of America’s best scenery. I had one of the best times ever. At least nine of us were single travelers and we all bonded into a very fun loving group. Traveling solo has never been a detriment to me, in fact it has proven to me how resilient and resourceful I can be. It has opened my world to places I would never have seen if I’d waited for someone to go with me. I’ve been forced to reach out and connect with total strangers who, by the end of my trips, have become friends—some lifelong. I can’t encourage you enough to do the same if you are single.

 

 It's not goodbye, Friends! It's "See you later!"

Just say NO to single supplements!

It has been the policy of some companies to charge a single person more, up to $1,000 in some cases, to have a private room and in some cases, to travel alone period. I call it the single tax or penalty. The company we traveled with, Grand Circle Tours, does not charge for a single person to have a room to themselves. Recently, more travel companies that do charge a single supplement fee for a private room have begun to realize they are missing out on a huge market of travelers by penalizing single people with these prohibitive fees. After all, it is estimated that almost half the country is single, or will be before long! I will choose a company that does not charge extra whenever possible. If it isn’t, I call the company to see if I can negotiate a reduction in the fees. So, do your homework and find those companies who are single friendly!

Thanks so much for coming with me on this wonderful tour of the nations great Western National Parks. And, stay tuned! There are many more adventures to come!

Please become a follower! I would really appreciate it.

Next time, we’ll return to England and the great estates of Warwick Castle and Blenheim, ancestral home of Winston Churchill.

Happy Travels!

Barbara

(Thanks a million to Eric Solberg and Larry Miner for the use of some of their pictures. Thanks, guys!)

MONUMENT VALLEY, HOLLYWOOD'S BACK LOT

 Monument Valley encompasses parts of Utah, Arizona and Colorado

  Featuring plateaus (long and flat), buttes (a shorter version shown on the

right) and mesas (tall and flat shown left in front of the plateau.)

Monument Valley

Looking across the dusty plains of Monument Valley you expect to see John Wayne astride a galloping steed wearing his high Stetson hat being chased by fierce Indian braves. If that image comes to mind, it’s probably because you've probably seen several movies with him doing just that. But as beautiful as the place is, how did this remote, arid Navajo land ever become the quintessential movie set? Well, it all started with a man and a dream, Harry Goulding.

The Goulding Trading Post

Tall and lanky, his sinewy frame baked in the hot desert sun, Harry sat astride his horse and looked out over the soaring mesas and flat plateaus and knew he’d found a new home. On that fateful day in 1921, it never occurred to him he would be instrumental in also making it a famous stage for Hollywood movies.  He and his wife, “Mike”, were just looking for a place to settle down and start a new business. They purchased one square mile of this land from the State of Utah and set up a trading post, and for the next seven years traded with the local Navajo people out of  a 10’ by 12’ tent.

A millennium of sea creatures laid down their lives to be carved by the hand of nature

into limitless, fascinating shapes forever shifting, changing and forever

delighting the senses.

They managed to do all right in this ideal setting until the depression hit and hit hard. His Navajo friends were suffering and dying of starvation and Harry and Mike’s own existence on the land was in jeopardy. Out of desperation, Harry reached out to Josef Muench, a noted photographer of the area and asked him to enlarge several of his best pictures. He and Mike then packed up their “bedrolls” and set out for Hollywood looking to enlist the help of Mike’s brother, a Hollywood stunt man. Doubtfully, the brother pointed Harry toward United Artist Studios, and once there, Harry threatened to camp out on their doorstep until someone talked to him. Long story short, he quickly attracted the attention of director John Ford with the photos and the rest is history.

John Ford ended up making 25 movies in the Valley, utilizing the local Navajos as extras and using Harry and Mike’s Trading Post as headquarters. Harry had not only saved his land and business, but his friends the Navajo and literately put Monument Valley on the map. (photo is from a day of filming "Stagecoach" (1939) starring John Wayne). Courtesy of Google Images.

 The Goulding Trading Post. Lower right--John Wayne's suite!

Anybody ever hear of Kanab??

Goulding's Trading Post wasn't the only place that movie makers discovered in Monument Valley. Kanab, Utah  also attracted the talents of big name directors and actors. A total of 71 westerns, 15 non-westerns and 14 TV shows were all filmed in or around Kanab, Utah. Who would have thought?

Remember these movies?
"She Wore a Yellow Ribbon" (1949) starring John Wayne
"Mackenna's Gold" (1969) starring Gregory Peck
"Jeremiah Johnson" (1972) starring Robert Redford
"Maverick" (1994) starring Mel Gibson

Or how about these shows...?
"The Rainmaker" (1956) starring Burt Lancaster
"Planet of the Apes" (1968 and 2001) starring Charleston Heston, and Mark Walberg
"The Greatest Story Ever Told" (1969) starring Max von Sydow

And who can forget these TV shows"
"Gunsmoke" (1955-75) starring James Arness
"Have Gun Will Travel" (1957-63) starring Richard Boone
"Wagon Train " (1957-65) starring Frank McGrath
"How the West Was Won" (1972-79) starring James Arness

 Little Hollywood

We stopped for lunch in itty bitty Kanab on our way through Monument Valley. Although there wasn't any evidence of the ghosts of film greatness past that I could discern, we did spend a few minutes at a place called Little Hollywood. The front building housed a modest museum and gift shop, but the fun was in the back. Someone did a fair job of assembling a collection of  set pieces from various western movies and TV shows. I brought "Sean and Morris" (the stars of a new children's book I'm writing for my granddaughter) and with the help of Ken, our driver, as my Cecil B. DeMille, filmed our own western movie.

 Little Hollywood Museum in Kanab, Utah.

 Ken, our wonderful bus driver, is a former Forest Ranger. He deputized 

Sean "The Sheep", Morris "The Moose"

and I just before we landed in a jail cell in the saloon!

Ken deputizing Sean and Morris into the Forest Service up top.

The "boys" and I rotting in jail and later high tailing it out 'o town on the stage.

 

 Roadside jewelry stand. Our driver, Ranger Ken, demonstrates his roping skills.

Back on the bus, we settled down for the long drive into Colorado to see the next site on our list, the famous Mesa Verde Indian cliff dwellings. However, before leaving the stunning Monument Valley, we stopped by a road side stand to admire and buy these beautiful handmade jewelry pieces from the Navajo. I bought a lovely turquoise pendant for a fraction of what a store would charge. Besides, it felt good to support the Navajo community directly.

Deep Water Project--Providing wells for the Navajo

Driving through this land, one can't help but connect not only with it but with its first inhabitants, the native Indians. It becomes painfully apparent how much has been taken away and so little given in return. Many Indian families and communities lack even the basic necessities of life, like water. When the tour was over, I heard of an organization that is committed to digging wells for the Navajo in Arizona. It costs around $500,000 to dig one well. If you would like to help, the name of the program is Deep Water Project headed by George McGraw. You can find out more by logging onto DigDeep.org and see how you can be part. Thank you!

Next time: Mesa Verde, Durango and home!

Thanks go to Eric and Larry for use of some of their wonderful pictures. Thanks, Guys!!